Vinay Kumar Singh.
Head-Formulation
Kumar Organic Products Research Centre Pvt. Ltd.,
Bengaluru
Email : formulation_krc@kopresearchcentre.net
Peptides are strings of molecules called amino acids, which are the "building blocks" of proteins. Peptides are basically short proteins that are about 2-100 amino acids long.
Our body makes peptides that serve important functions in some of our body's most necessary processes. For instance, insulin is a 51-amino-acid-long peptide hormone that helps our cells take in sugars from our food to use for metabolism and store them in our liver.
Peptides act as messengers, signaling skin cells to perform specific functions like boosting collagen, elastin, repairing, hydrating, and firming, helping to reduce signs of aging like wrinkles, improve texture, and strengthen the skin barrier. They work by mimicking natural skin processes, essentially "teaching" the skin to revitalize itself.
Peptides in hair products act as messengers, signaling hair cells to repair, strengthen (by boosting keratin/collagen), improve elasticity, deeply hydrate, and promote healthier growth by nourishing follicles and extending the growth phase, making hair thicker, less prone to breakage, and shinier.
What They Are
• Building Blocks: Peptides are smaller than proteins (like collagen) and are formed when amino acids link together, essentially acting as messengers or fragments of proteins.
• Natural & Synthetic: While our skin naturally produces peptides, cosmetic peptides are lab-created to target specific concerns.
Classification of Peptides
Peptides are classified by size (di-, oligo-, polypeptides), function (hormonal, antimicrobial, neurotransmitter), source (plant, venom, bacterial), or application (skin care, vaccines), acting as messengers, building blocks, or regulators, with examples like insulin (hormone) and collagen peptides (skin repair). Key functional types include signaling peptides (collagen/elastin production), carrier peptides (deliver nutrients), enzyme inhibitors (slow aging), and neuropeptides (nerve signaling).
By Size / Structure
• Dipeptides, Tripeptides, etc.: Chains of two, three, or more amino acids.
• Oligopeptides: Short chains (typically 4-20 amino acids).
• Polypeptides: Longer chains (usually 20-50 amino acids) that form proteins.
By Function / Source
Hormonal/Regulatory: Insulin, oxytocin, glucagon (regulate metabolism, bonding).
Antimicrobial: Bacteriocins, defensins (fight bacteria/fungi).
Neurological: Neuropeptides, neurotrophic peptides (brain signaling).
Venom/Toxin: Peptides from animal venoms.
Plant Peptides: Derived from plants, often bioactive.
Opioid Peptides: Act on opioid receptors (e.g., endorphins).
By Application (Especially in Cosmetics / Therapeutics)
• Signal Peptides: Trigger skin cells to produce collagen, elastin.
• Carrier Peptides: Deliver minerals (like copper) to skin.
• Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: Block enzymes that break down skin proteins.
• Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides: Relax facial muscles (e.g., Argireline).
• Anticancer Peptides: Target cancer cells.
Production Method
• Bioactive Peptides: Naturally derived from food proteins.
• Synthetic Peptides: Chemically made in labs (common in skincare).
• Recombinant Peptides: Produced using genetic engineering.
How Peptides Work in Skincare
• Signal Cells: Peptides tell our skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which diminish with age, leading to sagging and wrinkles.
• Repair & Strengthen: They help repair the skin's barrier, improve firmness, and enhance hydration.
• Targeted Actions: Different peptides have unique jobs, such as:
Signal Peptides: Stimulate collagen/elastin production.
Carrier Peptides: Deliver minerals to the skin.
Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides: Mildly relax muscles (like a softer Botox effect) to smooth lines.
Key Benefits
The collagen molecule is actually too large to absorb through skin, which is why so many people choose to eat collagen-rich bone broth or take collagen supplements.
But peptides can absorb into the skin where they can be used by the body. Incorporating peptides into your skin care routine has many benefits for the skin.
• Improved skin barrier
The skin barrier is the body’s line of defence against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other toxins. The skin barrier can be damaged from over-exfoliation, exposure to cigarette smoke and other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build up a stronger barrier.
Reduced wrinkles
Collagen can plump skin and lips. When skin is firmer and plumper, wrinkles and fine lines will be less visible.
More elastic skin
In addition to collagen, peptides also make up elastin fibers, also a type of p Anti-Aging: Reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging. It Boosts collagen and elastin for plumper, firmer skin.
Brightening
It can help with discoloration and uneven skin tone.
Eases inflammation
Peptides can help ease inflammation, repair damaged skin, and even out skin tone.
Can help clear breakouts
Some peptides are antimicrobial, meaning they can kill bacteria that cause acne.
How Peptides Work for Hair
• Strengthen & Repair: Their small size allows penetration into the hair fiber to stimulate keratin production, mend damaged bonds, and seal the cuticle.
• Boost Growth: They can increase blood flow to follicles, deliver nutrients, and tell cells to activate growth factors, leading to thicker, fuller hair.
• Improve Scalp Health: Peptides support the scalp's environment, which is crucial for healthy hair growth.
• Enhance Hydration: They help hair retain moisture, making it softer and shinier.
How Peptides Benefit Hair :
• Peptides can stimulate hair follicles to create more keratin, the primary protein in hair. This can promote the growth of thicker, fuller hair. Copper peptides, in particular, serve to extend the hair cycle's growth phase (anagen phase), which reduces hair shedding and promotes longer hair development.
• Peptides aid in strengthening the structure of the hair by enhancing keratin production. This makes the hair strands stronger and less prone to breakage.
• Peptides have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce irritation and inflammation in the scalp, creating a healthier environment for hair growth. They also help boost collagen production, which enhances the skin and scalp’s elasticity and repair process.
• Peptides help hair retain moisture, which improves its texture, softness, and manageability. This is especially useful for people with dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair.
• Peptides promote blood circulation in the scalp, ensuring that hair follicles receive more nutrients and oxygen. This can help decrease thinning and hair loss over time.
• Peptides create a protective layer surrounding the hair, insulating it from environmental stressors such as pollution, UV rays, and chemical treatments.
Peptides are versatile, bioactive ingredients that communicate with our skin & hair to enhance its structure, repair, and youthfulness, making them a popular choice in serums, creams, shampoos, masks and lotions.
