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ISO DECYL OLEATE: Innovatively produced unique ingredient for Cosmetics

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ISO DECYL OLEATE Innovatively produced unique ingredient for Cosmetics

Vinay Kumar SinghAbout Author
Vinay Kumar Singh.  
Head-Formulation
Kumar Organic Products Research Centre Pvt. Ltd.,
Bengaluru

lsodecyl Oleate is an esters of oleic acid formed by esterification of oleic acid with isodecyl alcohol. lsodecyl Oleates have been widely used in cosmetic and personal care products. In Skin care products, it  offers unique attributes like Non-oily feel, Skin conditioning, Good spread ability, Fast absorbency, Lightweight emolliency, Enhancement of shine. It also Improves the aesthetics.

It also has unique property to offer for Hair care products like Shine-enhancing, Anti frizz properties, Non-oily feel.
When applied to the skin alone, they deposit a thin oily film that is neither greasy nor tacky. They have good lubrication properties and possess low viscosity. This is used as dispersants and lubricants in cosmetic formulations, and is particularly important in makeup and makeup removers, in which they are used as wetting agents for iron oxide pigments; particles of such pigment are dispersed and easily suspended. The use of these ingredients facilities the application and removal of a suspension.

By virtue of its branched chain structure, lsodecyl Oleate possesses several distinct properties. It has the ability to lower the freezing point of the emulsion phase of products, as well as to control product viscosity. In dispersible bath oils, it forms a white emulsion, giving the tub water a rich and milky appearance. It also has the ability to suspend aluminum chlorohydrate, which makes it valuable for dry antiperspirant formulations. Lipstick formulations have employed lsodecyl Oleate because its coupling properties increase the hardness and strength of the product without reducing its flow characteristics.


Kopester IDO (Isodecyl Oleate) a naturally derived artifact from the Kumar Organics Research centre for beauty enhancement. This is an ester naturally derived from Oleic acid obtained from Palm oil and Isodecyl alcohol through biotransformation. Kumar Organic Products Limited has been adjudged winner by jury of FICCI Chemicals and Petrochemicals Awards 2021 as Manufacturing Process Innovator of the Year 2021, for Kopester IDO (Isodecyl Oleate).

Following is brief of Innovation.
The innovation substantiates the integration of biocatalysis into the chemical process of esterification of the fatty alcohol, Isodecyl alcohol and the fatty acid, Oleic acid into an ester, Isodecyl oleate. This significantly improved the process economy by avoiding time, effort, and solvent intensive steps directing the process towards green and sustainable chemistry. The enzyme Lipase immobilised on a non-compressible resin carrier was used as the biocatalyst. The process is carried out at 50deg C temperature, achieving 95% conversion. The immobilised enzymes used at a level of 1% was successfully recycled ten times contributing to the cost effectiveness.


The uniqueness of this patent filed innovation is that, it has converted a chemical process into a biotransformation process at half of the process temperature without any solvent, cost effectively. As the biocatalysts are immobilised, it is easily filtered, washed and reused for the next batch. Ten cycles of reuse has been established in the production scale.

There is increasing pressure from both society and governments for chemistry-based industries to become more sustainable through development of eco-friendly products and processes that both reduce waste and prevent toxic substances from entering the environment. The chemical industry is vitally important to the world economy; however the success of the industry has led to some environmental damage and a low public perception of the industry. In order to prevent further environmental damage and to encourage more young people into the industry, the public acceptability needs to be raised by adoption of greener and cleaner processes and green product design. The challenge present innovation tried to address is the redesign of a chemical process in order to eliminate hazardous chemicals and flammable solvents giving way to a greener cleaner and cost effective process for the emollient esters.

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