ABOUT AUTHOR:
Vinay Kumar Singh
General Manager-Technical,
Mikasa Cosmetics Limited,
Ahmedabad, Gujarat
vinay.s@mikasacosmetics.com
Colour Cosmetics according to RNCOS report, is the fastest growing segment of Indian Cosmetics Market. Main reasons for the growth of colour cosmetics are increased access to branded products through specialist retailers, supermarkets, increased awareness, influence of western culture, changing life style, disposable income and increasing population of working ladies in the country.
It is expected that with the increasing literacy rate and the government initiatives, the working women population will increase in near future. This, in turn, increases the demand for color cosmetics brands in the country. According to “Indian Cosmetic Sector Forecast to 2015”, the color cosmetics market is expected to witness a CAGR of more than 25% during 2013-2015.
Major revenue generators for the color cosmetic market are Lipstick and Nail Enamel sub-segments. Both these segments together generate around 65% revenue in the market. Eye makeup and foundation are not so popular among consumers (especially in the middle class) and perceived as an elite-class fashion product used on special occasions, like marriage, parties, etc. However, the rapid urbanization of population and influence of television seems to infuse the sales of eye makeup and foundation in future and help them to attain their substantial market share in the overall color cosmetics market.
If L'Oreal Paris and Maybelline-the top two make-up brands in the world owned by L'Oreal-are making rapid strides in the country, so are rivals Lakme from consumer goods giant Hindustan Unilever and US brand Revlon that is marketed in India by the UK Modi group.
UK's Lush forayed into Indian colour cosmetics segment while home-grown Lotus Herbals rolled out a premium range of makeup under Pure Stay brand. KK Modi group, too, is scaling up its ColorBar cosmetics.
In the developed world, typically 55-plus women are driver of cosmetic industry. In India, the trend is just reversed. Fifty per cent of India is less than 30 years.
The rising beauty concerns among both men and women are propelling the Indian cosmetics industry, which has witnessed a strong growth in the last few years. The country’s cosmetic sector has, in fact, emerged as one of the markets holding immense growth potential. New product launches catering to consumers’ growing requirements will fuel growth in the industry, for which the future outlook seems exceptionally bright.
The colour cosmetics market is flourishing as consumers continue to explore new looks and manufacturers produce ever more pleasing formulas and textures.
Beauty conscious consumers increasingly expect a single product to perform multiple functions. It has raised the bar on product innovation. Skin care functions like Anti-aging, toning, moisturizing, sunscreen, fairness and more are common in colour cosmetics. Year 2015 has been predicted as innovation packed year. Marsala, or Pantone 18-1438 has been named as colour of the year for 2015.
It is the demand of consumers that has forced to Formulate New formulation using Advance Technology to produce Product with followingattributes.
(a) Multi-Functionality:Examples: Lipstick is no longer a decorative product. Consumers demands for long lasting, moisturizer & sunscreen properties.
Skin Caring Colour Cosmetics- Colour cosmetics with ingredients for additional anti-ageing, plumping, lifting, radiance boosting
(b)Trendy portable products e.g. Traditional powder Sindoor form was messy to use is replaced by Sindoor Stick & Liquid Sindoor.
(c) Multi Purpose products e.g. Eye definer can be used as Lip definer & vice - versa.
One such product that has gained wide popularity is alphabetical creams which are as below.
B B Cream: It is short form of Blemish Balm which is a Big trend in Asian Countries. Basically it is Hybrid Skin Care/Make up product having Multifunctional effects: Covering imperfections like foundation, Hydrating & soothing the Skin, Fighting Wrinkles, Brightening & illuminating a dull complexion as daily care cream, often offer Sun Protection, leaving skin soft, silky & perfect like Baby Skin.
Lukas Meyer Cosmetics created 5-in-1 BB Cream having actives for Hydrating, Uniform and Luminous Complexion, Soothing, Protection & Anti wrinkle.
Now in market, we have so many Brands catering to this segment.
C.C.Cream: It is again a fusion of skincare and makeup.
CHANEL signature launched CC Cream that combines 5 actions in 1 single step:
a)SOOTHES. Cornflower water comforts sensitive skin.
b)MOISTURIZES. Hyaluronic acid helps maintain hydration level all day long by trapping and retaining moisture inside the skin.
c)PROTECTS. SPF 30 and PA+++ sun filters block aging-accelerating UVA-UVB rays. A mineral filter guarantees higher tolerance on the skin.
d) PREVENTS. An active ingredient of natural origin, Rejuvencia, provides the best shield against external aggressions.
e)EVENS OUT IMPERFECTIONS. Redness, dark spots and pores are visibly diminished.
Within moments, skin appears flawless and glows with a natural beauty. The complexion is visibly even-toned, fresh and radiant. CC Cream delivers complete correction.
D.D.Cream: It stands for “Daily Defence” or “Dyanamic Do All”. It’s supposed to address fine lines, balance uneven skin tone (caused by blemishes or dark spots) and provide hydrating, brightening, and anti-ageing properties for your skin. It is also supposed to prime and perfect with buildable coverage and protect with an SPF 25.
Julep’s Dynamic Do All range will be a combination of skincare and make-up. Julep’s DD cream and an accompanying DD concealer, which is said to “enhance the complexion, and provide a softer focus that serves to scatter light reflection and help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”. The powerful anti-ageing ingredients in Julep’s DD cream focus on making your skin look great when you put it on, and also improve your skin over time.
EE Cream: Estée Lauder delivered an EE cream (for "even effect"): The product is part of a new line the brand is launching called Enlighten, which is targeted to address discoloration. There has been a lots of research on how the environment affects our skin. As in a nutshell, the worse pollution gets, the worse we'll look when we're older. Oxidative stress and free-radical damage caused by pollutants have been linked to an increase in dark spots and hyper pigmentation.
The EE is designed to protect the complexion.The color correction happens due to a blend of pigments and optics that cheat a natural-looking radiance. It is with high SPF. When you apply the EE with your fingers, it has an instant brightening effect. This is designed to create an instant uniform tone. It acts as an SPF concealer.
GG Cream: This alphabetical cream though has been launched but is catering to different purpose. This is to address the most common post-hair removal concerns. One can get incredibly soft, glowing skin with the new GiGi GG Cream, a post-waxing perfector. It is Formulated with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and caffeine for anti-aging benefits, and is lightweight, oil-free and fragrance-free.
MM Cream: Mikasa Cosmetics Limited, Ahmedabad has created 10-in-1 MM Cream incorporating Actives for Hydrating, Uniform and Luminous Complexion, Soothing, Ant ageing, skin lifting, exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, sunscreen, skin lightening, opacifier & colour to match skin tone.
HAIR COLOURANTS
The colouring of hair is one of the most important acts of adornment among men and women since the origin of man.
The reasons for getting the hair coloured have been to change the natural colour, to colour the white hair which begin to appear with age or to change the colour of the hair temporarily on a particular occasion. Now a days it has become a must to colour the hair as fashion statement. Most head in the crowd has hair with at least few lock coloured to enhance its attractiveness.
Photo of Hair colored
LIP LUSTRE: In this category consumer wants following benefits apart from it colouring the lips.
Long Lasting, Matte finish, Sun protection, Duo Tones, Moisture Core/Extra moiturisers ,Plumping and Kiss Proof.
UK cosmetic manufacturer Swallowfield plc ,developed Poutplump - a plumping Lip gloss that inflates lips to make them fuller, firmer & defined. It contains ingredients that helps to restore collagen & other amino acids in the lips.
Just few years ago, lipstick was a molded mass composed of pigment-castor oil grinds and waxes. Current lipstick formulas combine color and comfort with long lasting, pleasant aesthetics. Modern lipstick formulas now contain water, emulsions and encapsulated colored pigments . Most recently a volumizing and moisture-enhancing polymer that plumps lips as it moisturizes them are introduced.
Kiss Proof Lipstick: When the concept was launched in the market, the product used to have two packs; one to apply lipstick which will not get removed even during actual act another to remove it from lips when desired. I would like to share my experience of Consumer expectation and Formulation development. When this concept of Kiss proof Lipstick reached India, Indian consumer wanted all the benefits that are offered by imported counterpart but they did not want two pack or to be precise they did not want something to remove Lipstick. They wanted Lipstick that is Kiss proof after application but it must get removed whenever desired by a stroke of tissue paper or cotton ball. No doubt, it was a challenge to develop such formulation. But we could achieve the desired product but the height of expectation came, when I was told that the product is not butter chicken proof. It is thanks to Silicone chemistry that we could achieve Butter chicken proof, Kiss proof Lipstick.
Colour Changing Lipstick: Fun to think that lipstick can change colour depending upon one’s mood.
Lipstick does not change colour because of mood. The pH balance and temp. of lips cause the Lipstick ingredients to change colour. Of course, mood has effect on temp. of body
NAIL ENAMEL: Lots of research in this field has yielded various options that were desired by consumers.
Nail Art : Beautiful nails enhance the beauty of hands.
Expensive salons offering wacky fingernail designs have sprouted up all over in recent years to meet the growing demand.The parlour artistically paints the nails turning them into a mini canvas, decoratively arranging gems and foils and by piercing them with rings and chains.The cost of a nail job can range from a few hundred rupees for a single glittered dot glued to one pinky nail to a few thousand rupees for a set of five-cm "sculptured" nails attached to each finger.
Antimycotic Nail Enamel : Antimycotic Nail Enamel contains substituted 2-amino thiazoles for treatment of fungal infection in Nails.
Nail Varnish that can be switched on or off: It could be the future of Colour Cosmetics.
Iron Oxide particles embedded in microscopic polymer beads can be made to change colour with application of external magnetic field. Colour change occurs with no change in structure or intrinsic properties of microspheres. What changes is the orientation of microsphere. The magnetic field makes the particles line up in ordered arrangement. Changing the field will change the order of the particles leading to different diffraction colours.
In this technique, Iron oxide itself can be used to get different colours by using magnetic field.
Gel nail polish: It gives a chip-free coating to the nails and can last several weeks. Gel nails polish are a type of treatment where thin layers of gel are applied to natural or artificial nails and cured under an ultraviolet light (or with a special gel activator) to create a high-gloss finish. It is non-yellowing, odorless, and chip free formula that not only strengthens nails, but provides the perfect base for funky and flirty designs.
Compact Face Powder:
Even Face Powder compact is desired to offer Silky & velvety feel, Velvety peach like/Satin finish, Improved Absorbency for our climate. Quality of Puff / Mirror is also expected to be better. Formula must deliver more for that emolliency, Built in SPF is desired.
Foundation:
Lifting/ Tightening/ smoothing/ long lasting/ Detoxifying/ anti-free radical/ skin protector, Pore minimiser/skin smoothing/oil reducing properties are desired in this product. AHAs & BHAs to increase cell turnover and prevent pore clogging, a potential cause of Acne, is used.
Clarins Extra Firming Foundation is aimed at women over age of 40, which has antiageing, antiwrinkle and radiance booster properties
Rimmel’s Lasting Finish 25Hour Foundation is said to look as good the following day as when it was first applied. It was formulated with Volatile silicones and film forming polymers
Maybelline’s Eraser Foundation has patented applicator having SPF 18 and is enriched with collagen
Shiseido has launched Sun Protection Liquid Foundation SPF42, designed to be resistant to sweat, oil and Water.
Maybellines NY’s Wonder Finish Foundation-unique mix. of water, silicones & light fluids, It is applied after shaking, evaporates to leave colour pigment and fine powdery texture behind
Clinique launched in Italy Perfectally real make up having Adv.Tech. light reflecting micro pigments.
MineralFX contains micronised powder claims to protect against loss of elasticity & collagen, help to hide lines & wrinkles.
Maybelline’s True Illusion releases colour pigment in a new way so the make up does’t clump but applies evenly
Foundation with the Asymeteric Oxygen Carrier System (AOCS). The formula contains liposomes to deliver oxygen at sub-epidermal level. It replenishes molecular oxygen levels in the skin, which diminish with ageing. This has been an interesting idea involving an essential element, oxygen, to rejuvenate the skin.
EYE MAKE UP PREPARATION:
Products to decorate Eyes too require following attributes.
Mascara must be Water and Smudge proof. It should have Moisturizer and outcome should be Fuller, thicker, fatter lashes.
Eye Liner must be Fast Drying and Water proof.
Eye Shadow: There has been revolution in this category in the form of Cosmetics Pencil with applicator/eraser. 2 in 1 & 3 in 1 Products are available.
Products having Properties to Improve Skin Condition like Maybelline’s Expert Wear claims light & natural look is required. It also helps prevent skin from drying.
Concealor: Aimed to remove Dark Circle.
Garnier’s caffeine Anti dark circles 2-in-1 Tinted Eye Roll On has refreshing, hydrating formulation, which actively address dark circle, while mineral pigments disguise the problem immediately
Sticker Kumkum(Bindi): Manufacturers of this product too is bringing in innovation in the product by offering new design, new pattern to attract consumer. I had an opportunity to research on a leading brand of this product. Initially I was wondering as to what new innovation I can bring in this product. Then found that Indian ladies have die hard habit of removing Bindi from their forehead and placing it on any surface they lay hand on.(Be it Bed, Coupboard, Door, Bath room, any wall, Kitchen, Toilet). What was ironical that when they run out of stock, they use one from these surface, thereby bringing infection from these substrate to their forehead. Considering this research gave birth to Bindi with Antimicrobial Adhesive, which has capacity to kill microbes from those surfaces, making it safe for user.
Recently a news was published regarding development of Bindi with IC(Integrated Circuit) to enhance memory. Thus such innovation will keep this kind of product alive in the market.
Sindoor & Powder Kumkum: Even products like Sindoor and Kumkum is expected to be Non Smudgy. Consumer seek Convenience in application, which has given rise to products like Liquid Sindoor.
Can you think of the fact that Cosmetics can Change Colour to match your Skin. Following are the three types of product that can do so.
1. Ingrdients that change colour with pH/Solubility-The main ingredient is Red 27,a red dye which is colourless in waterless base. When it comes in contact with moisture, the change in solubility and pH causes the dye to turn bright pink. Thus product appears to change with personal chemistry. e.g. Du Wop Pesonal colour changing Lipstick
2. Encapsulated Colours: Colourants that are coated with waxy or gel like ingredients and suspended in an uncoloured base. When product is rubbed into skin, the friction break open the dye releasing colour. The product changes with personal chemistry as more you rub, more will be release. e.g. Intuitive Blend shade Adjusting Foundation by Wet n’ Wild.
3. Skin Protein reaction: Products that provide a Natural Tan Glow using ingredient called dihydroxyacetone or DHA.DHA reacts with skin protein Keratin to give light orangish brown colour. The more one uses, more is the glow
Innovation in product has been largely due to innovation in its components like materials that are being used to achieve desired characteristic in the products. Let’s understand few of them.
Multilayer Interference Pigment: It gives much more brilliant colour intensity than a mono layer pigment. Kobo introduced a line of iridescent effect pigments that exhibit colour travel.
Micron-sized Carbon Black: Tagra Biotechnologies has launched a non-nano encapsulated Carbon Black.Carbon Cap are carbon black microcapsules that have been coated with transparent polymer. Microcapsule is highly loaded with pigment, which allows for colour saturation in Finished Product. Size is 2micron,can impart strong black colour
Surface Treatments of Colored Pigments:
It is done to impart true skin treatment properties to pigments, by using them as carriers for the sustained release of active ingredients.
Optically Activated Particles : Lipo Chemical has launched LipoLight OAP/PVA, designed to emit and diffuse visible light to dramatically reduce fine lines and skin imperfections via specially modified nylon particles.
What's Coming - Nano-Color: Imagine a color that never fades!!!
Color that lasts a month or more and looks as fresh as the first day -Wow !!!!
Often the hair color fade and gets washed out within a few days. In the very near future one will be using encapsulated dye with "time released nano- dye molecules" that release fresh pigment within their shaft when you wash your hair.
Photonics: L’Oreal is working on this new concept. Cosmetics with stunning new colour effect that rely on light refraction and not pigment.
Make use of Nano-Tech to control colour by layering the compound’s
structure. Different gaps in the layers and varying no.of layers can influence the colour outcome when it is exposed to light.
New actives that are bio-engineered have brought a lot of innovation in the design of effective formulation that delivers desired attributes required by consumer.
One can create own personalized recipes at the Kiosks.IMX cosmetics allows customers to mix their own personalized recipes for lip gloss and nail polish and retrieve them at in-store computer kiosks called mixing stations.
There has been innovation in testing methods too as Computerized measurement is done for correction of colour cosmetics.
Computer is used as a QC tool for shade differentiation, colour analysis, formulation/ correction, it can assist the chemist in achieving particular and traditionally difficult goals in short time.
Use of Video Imaging in measurement of Make-up efficacy & Performance is done now a days. With high resolution video cameras & sophisticated image analysis software, researchers can visualize the consumer perception from the product without the product in contact with their skin.
It helps to study Colour, brightness, streakiness of lipstick, curling & lengthening power of mascara & no transfer properties of Foundation and brightness of Nail Enamel.
Uniquely Male Make-Up: 2O years ago it would have been unusual for a man to be buying under-eye concealer for his girlfriend and unthinkable that he should be buying for himself. But Market analyst value only UK male grooming market around 1000million pound.So market has Mascara, Eye liner, Bronzing powder, Lipstick, Tinted moisturiser, mattifying gel, Kohl pencil, Concealer etc. for Men.
What Men term it as Grooming and not Make-up.
Reports from South Korea state that males there spend most on makeup, thus South Korea is regarded as Male Makeup Capital of the World.
MMUK MAN, Britain’s leading cosmetics for Men retailer; proudly presented the Top Five Mens Cosmetic Products recently.
1. Calvin Klein’s Mens Concealer: It uses brightening technology to reflect natural light off of Under Eye area, making it appear refreshed & revitalized.
2. MMUK MAN’s very own Concealer stick for men for making acne, spots and blemishes a mere distant memory.
3. Men’s Eye Brow Pencil to turn patchy, undefined and unruly brows into sharp features of dominance.
4. Tinted Moisturizer to take care of uneven skin tone, faint facial imperfection and dry damaged skin surface.
5. MMUK MAN’s Bronzer for Men-Which comes in a multitude of matte finish shades and allows one to turn up the tan at any time with just a simple application
As per report of Mintel following Beauty Enhancing Claims in colour Cosmetics has been found globally. Brightening/lluminating-29%, Moisturising/Hydrating-19%, Long Lasting-15%, Botanical/Herbal-13%, Seasonal-9%,Ease of use-8% and Vitamin/Mineral Fortified-7%, which highlightes the requirement of consumer. It is the demand from consumer that has forced innovation and brought new technologies in Cosmetics formulation to offer best quality and functionally excellent product that satisfies more than one need. Men too are not lagging behind to have their product to decorate themselves by calling the products grooming preparations. May be Future of Colour Cosmetics is in Grooming Products for Male.
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