ABOUT AUTHOR:
Vinay Kumar Singh
General Manager-Technical,
Mikasa Cosmetics Limited,
Ahmedabad, Gujarat
vinay.s@mikasacosmetics.com
Isn’t ironical to call a cosmetics, MEN’S Cosmetics. Cosmetics are substance that enhance beauty of a person, protects from harmful environment, cleanses, hides blemishes, makes one attractive and ultimately boosts the confidence. Thus Cosmetics per say do not differentiate between users, but humans do.
The history of male cosmetics is a long one, which is why I’m always surprised when I read about it as a relatively modern concept.
Primitive men used to colour themselves to terrify his enemies particularly animals.
The earliest records of men using cosmetics were in Asia – in China and Japan 3000BC, men and women used tinctures of gum arabic, gelatin and egg to stain their fingernails to signify their status in society. The Romans themselves painted their heads to disguise premature baldness.
A turning point in male cosmetics was the arrival of the cinema. A side-parted Clark Gable encouraged the vanity of young males. Elvis Presley and John Travolta were rarely featured in a film without a comb and grease to fix their hair. Advertisers cashed onto this opportunity pretty quickly and male-specific branding emerged, bolstering the male half of the cosmetics industry. In 2008 YSL launched the male version of Touche Éclat.
Oils and animals fats protected the Egyptians' skin from the harsh heat and sunlight of the Nile River delta and soothed their aching muscles. Employers commonly included them as part of a worker's compensation.
Sometimes scented or pressed into thick lotions, primitive moisturizers were just one cosmetic involved in an Egyptian man's health regimen. Before leaving the house for a day's work or heading to a banquet or celebration, an upper-class Egyptian man might take a few moments to adorn his eyes. Like King Tut's thickly lined eyes that stare out from the young pharaoh's sarcophagus, black kohl liner that extended beyond the eyelids to the temples was in vogue during the New Kingdom. Black had replaced green as the shade of choice. Old Kingdom (2650 to 2134 B.C.) fashion had called for a crude emerald eye shadow made of malachite (copper carbonate).
Cosmetics were an important part of the lives of both men and women in Egypt as early as 10,000 BC. Continuing throughout Egyptian history, cosmetics were intertwined with everyday health and hygiene for Egyptian men. Daily, men would use cosmetic oils and creams to protect their skin from hot desert sun and winds. Both men and women commonly used red ochre and henna to dye lips, cheeks and fingernails; men also applied heavy eyeliner, which helped reduce the sun’s glare and was believed to have improved eyesight.
These cosmetics were part of everyday life for the most “rugged” and masculine men in Egyptian society. It was the beginning of men wearing makeup. But, it didn’t really become the centerpiece of a guy’s look again until the ‘70s, when pop culture was in vogue. Makeup was still so feminized that no one wanted to talk about it; despite the fact that the guys were wearing.
Alexander the Great was ridiculed throughout ancient literature for wearing make-up. He was undefeated in battle and ruled the largest empire of the ancient world.
The long, curled, powdered wig, white makeup, rogue, silk stockings were all key to maintaining a powerful appearance in aristocratic circles in 18th century England and France. These elaborate fashions were worn by kings, dukes and nobles – the most powerful men in society.
20 years ago it would have been unusual for a man to be buying under-eye concealer for his girlfriend and unthinkable that he should be buying for himself. But Market analyst value only UK male grooming market around 1000 million pound. So market has Mascara, Eye liner, Bronzing powder, Lipstick, Tinted moisturiser, mattifying gel, Kohl pencil, Concealer etc. for Men.What Men term it as Grooming and not Make-up.
Reports from South Korea state that males there spend most on make –up, thus South Korea is regarded as Male Makeup Capital of the World.
Eager to achieve their pretty-boy looks and smooth complexion, South Korean men are increasingly turning to BB cream foundation and anti-aging products to achieve perfection, spending $900 million a year on cosmetics, according to research firm Euromonitor. South Korea is by far the largest in a growing global market for men’s cosmetics.
South Korean men spent US$25.30 per capita on skin care in 2013—more than three times second-place Denmark. Asian countries account for five of the top 10 countries in per capita spending.
A 30-year-old South Korean man, starts each day with meticulous efforts to paint the perfect face. He applies toner, serum, moisturising lotion, eye cream, facial oil and sun block. Then he puts on foundation and lip gloss for a brighter appearance, while using mascara to make his eyebrows thicker.
“The most important thing is to look natural so that others don’t know that you have put on make-up. When he leaves home he carries a discreet black pouch with dozens of cosmetic aids, including vitamin oil and powder, to maintain his appearance throughout the day. At bedtime he undertakes cleansing and moisturising routine before bed.
The transformation of South Korean men from macho to make-up has also been propelled by competition for jobs and romance. Despite the global economic troubles, the market in South Korea's male skincare products grew 10% in 2012, according to London-based market research firm Euromonitor International. The country's biggest cosmetics company, Amore Pacific, estimates growth is now even higher.
"A few years ago, there was an advertisement which said, 'Your appearance is also your strategy,' meaning that grooming yourself is a reflection of your competency, part of your value as a complete package. It gives you a competitive edge."
Here are the basic must haves by South Korean men.
BB Cream: Blemish Balm, or BB cream as it is known, was originally formulated as a post-operation cream to help fire and burn victims and patients who have gone through laser skin surgery. It aims to soothe and regenerate the skin. The product acts like a tinted moisturizer that is superior to foundation because it is lighter on the skin. Not only that, it also serves as a make-up base, skin care as well as provides adequate coverage & protection from the sun. This is great for those living in tropical countries like us.
Facial mist – A must have to keep the skin hydrated. A handy product to have in the bag to refresh during hot and humid days.
Luminizers (Highlighters) – For that porcelain-like skin. This is a must for that dewy and baby-face look that is currently the trend in Korea.
Facial mask – Used at the end of nightly skin care routine to seal all of the products used. There is a wide variety of facial masks to choose from containing different extracts to meet various skin concern or skin type. Another item that really hydrates skin and leaves one feeling fresh and glowing.
South Korean men spend more on skin product than any other male population in the world
Even though cosmetics as a whole recorded weaker performance in 2013, men’s grooming including men’s skin care showed similar healthy growth as in 2012. Men’s grooming increased by 7% in value terms; in particular, men’s skin care grew by 9% in value terms. Men’s shaving also recorded a higher value growth rate of 2% in 2013 than in 2012.
Mens Makeup UK, the number one makeup for men specialists as voted for by men's makeup lovers, artists, guru's and Men's Health readers in 2012 has exclusive range of makeup for men It served the make-up needs of Britain's modern day men for many a year. Catering for a wide range of male makeup needs with easy to navigate online male cosmetics store. Whether it be foundation, concealer, bronzer or BB cream for men, you are certain to discover the perfect makeup for you to refine your complexion, improve your appearance and boost your confidence. If you're looking to improve your eye area, then there is a professional range of eye makeup for men products including manscara, guyliner, brow gel and men's eye brow pencils.
MMUK MAN, Britain’s leading cosmetics for Men retailer Proudly presented the Top Five Men’s Cosmetic Products for 2013
1.Calvin Klein’s Mens Concealer: uses brightening technology to reflect natural light off of Under Eye area, making it appear refreshed & revitalized.
2.MMUK MAN’s very own Concealer stick for men for making acne spots and blemishes a mere memory.
3.Men’s Eye Brow Pencil to turn patchy, undefined and unruly brows into sharp features of dominance.
4.Tinted Moisturizer to take care of uneven skin tone, faint facial imperfection and dry damaged skin surface.
5.MMUK MAN’s Bronzer for Men-Which comes in a multitude of matte finish shades and allows one to turn up the tan at any time with just a simple application
Indian men are also coming out of the closet when it comes to having a daily grooming regime. They are no longer shy of using creams, lotions, face scrubs, shower gels and so on meant for male skin. Grooming is no longer a quick shave, slapping on some aftershave and heading out of the door in India—it is growing into something more.
The men’s grooming and personal care market in India is outpacing the Indian personal care market at large for growth.
Additionally, as more Indian men are looking to remain competitive in the workforce, they are seeking products to help them maintain a youthful look.
More male Indian icons, such as Hindi actors and cricket players, are working with beauty and personal care brands to encourage the use of personal care product by men.
Skin lightening and hair color products are among the most popular among Indian men.
According to a Nielsen study on the Indian male grooming segment, there is a rising aspiration among Indian men to look better groomed, which has led to the Indian men’s grooming market’s rapid growth of more than 34%. The Nielsen study further showed that this growth is faster than the growth rate of the total personal care and beauty industry in India. So the time is ripe for beauty and grooming brands to make most of this growing male attention. The male grooming market in India is expected to grow by a CAGR of 11% to reach Rs.5300 crore by 2016 as per Euromonitor.
Interestingly, men in India today, and especially those who fall in the age group of 18 to 25;spend more money on grooming and personal care products than women in India. The aspirations and requirements of today’s young Indian men are rapidly evolving. With a surge in disposable income, men are becoming more discerning and indulgent. In an evolving trend in India, men are beginning to look at innovative grooming and personal care products created specifically for them.
According to a recent study by Indian industry body ASSOCHAM (Association of Chambers of Commerce), reveals that 85%Indian men prefer to buy their own grooming products, and do not rely on the women in their households to do so. Gone are the days when wife used to bring product for husband. Rising beauty consciousness due to changing demographics and lifestyles, deeper consumer pockets, rising media exposure, greater product choice, growth in retail segment and wider availability are the reasons for sharp rising demand of cosmetics among India men, especially the youth. Men in smaller towns are displaying greater desire for grooming, especially in the whitening and fairness segment.
Indian men are now more aware than ever about the impact of pollution, regular shaving, and the sun on their skin and hair. So products such as shaving creams, aftershaves, moisturizers, face masks and exfoliators, hair care and hairstyling solutions are increasingly popular choices with them. An ASSOCHAM study shows more and more men are looking for separate sets of bathing and essential care products that include bath and shower gels, face wash, and deodorants.
Additionally, in India today men no longer want just clean skin—they want it to be fair, bright and spotless. Besides skin and bath products, hair color for men as a segment has also seen impressive growth. “More men today like to go for hair color to not only hide grays but also for a style change. The need to look younger is driving many to this.
The beauty and Cosmetics market in India is growing twice as fast as markets of the U.S and Europe. There has been sharp increase in number of beauty salon and spa in the country as it stresses on Total Wellness concept that provide psychological benefits and stress reduction which is the requirement of most men. It is estimated that about 25-30% of total salon business come from men’s treatment. When asked by me at one of the O2 spa at one of the airports in India, I was surprised to know that more than 80% of their clients are Men. As per Datamonitor, 54% of Asian males believe their look and appearance to be important than 44% in Western Europe.
The first rule of Men’s make up is you do not talk about make up. This is because the word has connotation that can be negative for men, who want their toiletries and grooming products to retain a sense of manliness. This is true for all men. Even O2 spa revealed that men do come for their services but stealthily, they hide it from their partner or friend etc. They want to feel best, look best without anybody knowing about what they have done, purely to boost male ego.
Thus Indian men too don’t lag behind their counterpart in any part of world, be it Korea or U.S. or U.K. in using cosmetics to groom themselves and keep their confidence always high and be presentable.
Surprisingly recent report from New York reveals that unlike earlier days when men used to borrow or steal Cosmetics from their wives or girlfriends or sisters, Women are stealing it from men. There has been reports that women like and love to use Men’s product. Anthony, a brand even launched product with tagline” Developed for men, Borrowed by women.”
Thus I would say Cosmetics are for All. Preference, choice and usage can only segment it into different categories, but the main motto of Cosmetics will remain unchanged which is to Enhance Confidence of User.
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