ABOUT AUTHOR:
Vinay Kumar Singh
General Manager-Technical,
Mikasa Cosmetics Limited,
Ahmedabad, Gujarat
vinay.s@mikasacosmetics.com
Before trying to understand advancement in Hair Care, Let us try to know basics about Hair.
For mammals, fur provides an insulating coat for the conservation of body heat. The ape RAMAPITHECUS as they left the forest and moved to the Savannah, started a march towards nudity, the hair on the body became sparser and shorter due to adaptability. The hair was not lost from all over the body. The eyebrows and the eyelashes remained. The hair on the scalp remained as a protection from midday sun, for an animal who can stand and walk on its own two feet. The beard remained as a badge of maleness and in both sexes, the genital and axillary hair remained as it was probably associated with glandular scent producing units.
Let us know some facts about Hair: Greying of hair involves a loss of pigment from the hair shafts and a progressive loss of tyrosinase activity from the hair bulbs. It is normal part of aging. White hair first appears at the temples at the average age of 34 and by the age of 50, half the population has 50% grey hair. Rapid greying of hair after severe emotional stresses has been often recorded.
Average hair growth per 24 hour ranges from 0.21 to 0.38 mm. Scalp hair growth is more in female than in male.Growth at other places is slow but almost nil at eyelashes. Apart from the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, almost all skin has follicles from which hair could grow. Obviously, not all the follicles contain hairs and not all hairs grow as quickly or as long as those of the scalp.
Morphologically, hair consists of : Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla
Cuticle: It accounts for 10% by weight of the hair fibre, consists of overlapping flat scales, which surrounds the remainder of the hair shaft i.e. The Cortex.
Cortex: About 90% of hair fibre is made up of cortex. Cortex consists of spindle shaped keratinised cells which are oriented along the axis of the fibre and are cemented together. Colour of hair is due to the pigment present in cortex, which is known as Melanin.
Medulla: The Medulla possess a relatively open structure. It may contain air pockets and probably consists of proteins other than those present in the cortex.
Hair Follicle are tubular inpushings of epidermis. It engulfs a small papilla of dermis to form hair bulb. The epidermal cells surrounding the dermal papilla then proliferate to push outwards a column of keratinised cells, which is the hair-shaft, invested in an inner root-sheath. A hair canal is formed in this process.
Papilla cells are the masterminds of the hair growth. These cells remain in a little cluster, right outside the bottom of the follicle. After six years of growth, the follicle degrades. The dermal papilla then commands immature cells in the hair bulge to divide into a new follicle, sheath and shaft.
Chemistry of Hair: Chemical analysis of Hair shows it to consist of 5 chemical elements. All 5 are non-metals. They are C, H, O, N, and S. The keratin of hair is a protein comprising of around 18 different amino acids. Hair fibres are composed of around: 85% Complex Protein Keratin ,7% associated water ,3% lipids , 2% Pigment
In the structure of Hair, there are various bonds and linkages which are responsible for its strength and unique characteristics.
Disulphide Bonds: It is this linkage, which connects neighboring polypeptide chains like the rugs of the ladder, and is responsible for hair waving and depilation.
Salt-Linkage: Also called coulomb forces exist due to the electrostatic interaction between positively charged NH4+ ions and negatively charged
carboxylated groups. These bonds contribute about 35% of the strength of Keratin fibre and are readily ruptured by acids and alkalis.
Hydrogen Bonds: These are mainly between an amide nitrogen and an adjacent carboxyl group, contributes about 35% strength to hair.
Vander Waals forces: Attractive forces of the vander waals may exist between any two atoms in close proximity. They contribute to the mechanical strength of the fibre not due to individual strength but by their number.
Peptide Linkage: It is believed that peptide and ester cross linkages exist but they are yet to be studied.
Actually Demand of consumers has forced to offer Products using Advance Technology to satisfy their needs.Hair care seems like it should be simple. Over time, though, your hair becomes less dense. Individual strands get thinner and break more easily.
Sunlight, climate, and pollution also take a toll. And typical hairstyling techniques -- blow drying, coloring, over using gels -- can further damage your hair.
But if the damage hasn’t progressed too far, there are hair care products that may restore glossy, full-bodied hair. Many of these products may work for at least a short time and provide subtle benefits.
Hair Care Products with Silicones
Shampoos are not what they used to be. In the past, the cleansing agent was soap, which could dry out your scalp and leave a scum that doesn’t rinse away.
Modern shampoos, though, use synthetic detergents known as surfactants as the cleansing agent. Surfactants lather well in all types of water, and the lather lifts dirt and excess oil from your hair and holds it until it’s rinsed away.
Modern shampoos also contain silicones that give hair a soft feel, help it retain moisture, and make it easier to comb and manage. Many shampoos contain ingredients that condition the hair as well and repair damage.
To help achieve this growth, the use of silicones has become a common denominator; approximately 60% of new hair care products will contain at least one silicone material, and often more in the case of conditioners. With their unique set of chemical and physical properties, silicones are recognized as multifunctional ingredients that, in addition to conditioning hair, can be used to add shine, make combing easier, provide color protection, help guard against damage from heat styling, enhance hair strength, repair damaged hair, moisturize, define and hold curls, control frizz, and add volume. And with the continued growth of this beauty segment, knowing the versatility of ingredients used to develop such hair care products is key in moving ahead in an innovative, engaging way.
Among the latest advances in hair care are better conditioning products that make fragile hair less likely to break or tangle.
Zoe Draelos, MD, editor of The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology says, "Advances in silicone technology, such as the use of dimethicone and amodimethicone have improved hair conditioning, smoothing the cuticle, temporarily mending split ends, improving the ability of hair to retain color, and decreasing hair breakage."
To achieve their look of choice, consumers also are using heating appliances such as curling irons and hair dryers that can damage hair. Silicones are thermally stable and spread easily on the hair, forming a protective film to help prevent water loss from the hair shaft caused by the heat of appliances.
High Oil Concept: For today’s fast paced life styles,consumers demand that their hair care products be easy to use and time –saving. Further multi-sensory attributes offered from a product are becoming essential components to its overall success.Incorporation of high lavels of oils is key to overall performance and consumer satisfaction.Natural oils are incorporated in body wash formulations to provide desired moisturizing effect and smooth skin feel after showering.
Conditioners That Use the Science of Skin Care: Another major development has been the application of skin care ingredients to hair care. For instance, some of the ingredients used in anti-aging skin care products, such as collagen, peptides, and sunscreens, are now found in hair care products. Many of these products penetrate the hair and help increase its moisture. Peptides, for example, provide extra conditioning and make the hair shaft stronger by depositing a shield on the shaft.
The migration of color cosmetics and skin care claims and technologies into hair care has become the basis to offer consumers hair care products with added-value benefits focused on caring and protecting the hair. Skin care has had the greatest influence on hair care, which now features skin care ingredients that promote scalp health.
Above diagram shows range of multifunctional products that are inspired by skincare: BB and CC Creams for hair.
Specialized hair products offer targeted benefits, either included as an added feature to previously commoditized products such as shampoos and conditioners, or launched as standalone products like hair care serums, masks and oils. Both forms of innovation are designed to enhance the consumers’ experience and provide greater efficacy in areas such as hair shine, moisture, bounce, volume and breakage prevention.
From a consumer perspective, this trend is about developing hair care products that offer an enhanced hair care routine. This is accomplished through the creation of either multifunctional hair care products like BB and CC Creams, which are starting to gain attention in the marketplace due to the convenience factor, or specialized products designed to encourage a multi-step hair care regimen similar to a skin care regimen.
Achieving Amino acid balance
Hair primarily consists of a protein called keratin, which is made of 18 different amino acids. Common hair care practices, such as blow drying, coloring, and styling, cause a reduction in the amino acid level of the hair. Recent research has identified three amino acids -- histidine, tyrosine, and lysine – that, when added to products like shampoo or conditioners, help repair hair by restoring the amino acid balance.
Healthy Hair Starts With Protection From the Sun
Both natural sunlight and artificial ultraviolet light break down the keratin protein in hair and damage its elasticity. Hair becomes weakened and dry with excess sun exposure -- similar to the effects of bleaching though not as severe.
Sunscreens are now found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, conditioners, and hairsprays. They prevent breakdown of keratin due to sun exposure and also keep hair dye from fading in ultraviolet light.
Conditioners that come with at-home hair coloring kits now contain sunscreens that filter both UVA and UVB rays.
Hair Loss Treatment
Men and women both experience hair loss. Men usually have to deal with it at a much younger age due in large part to genetics. Two drugs, minoxidil and finasteride, have been shown to encourage the regrowth of hair in about one out of every three men.
HAIR COLOURANTS
The colouring of hair is one of the most important acts of adornment among men and women since the origin of man. The reasons for getting the hair coloured have been to change the natural colour, to colour the white hair which begin to appear with age or to change the colour of the hair temporarily on a particular occasion. Colored hair has become a common statement of individuality, youth and fashion. An estimated 50% of American women above the age of 25 color their hair, and the market for hair coloring is expected to continue to grow. Shining, lustrous hair color needs protection from repeated washing and UV exposure, and silicones can offer an answer by helping color last longer, retain its vibrant look, protect and enhance color brilliance, and revive color and shine.
Other Hair Care Products
There are many other Hair Care Products like Anti Dandruff Preparations and Depilatories, which are in great demand.
Breakthrough Ingredient Technology
Using the latest Molecular Nano Technology unique Color Longevity Formula has been created that make Color products truly high performance, luxurious and multifunctional.
Molecular Nano Technology is the latest scientific advancement in hair care that Combined ingredients which were not previously possible and create truly multifunctional luxury color care
It is to create high performance ingredients one billionth of a gram in size which truly penetrate the Cortex to build beautiful, healthy and amazing color
Today’s hair care market is large and mature, and yet it remains dynamic because of its need to satisfy grooming needs, as well as its need to address continually changing lifestyle, demographic and even economic considerations.
Scientifically, hair care product developers need to create products that satisfy the needs of diverse hair types, ethnicities, cultures and regions.
Products are increasingly designed for dry, fine, curly or tangled hair; colored or damaged tresses; and styles ranging from short to long, sleek to voluminous. In Asia, for example, the simple, straight bob is giving way to curled looks, exotic cuts and vibrant color—even in the ranges of reds and blond.
The hair care market is a key constituent of the Indian personal care sector and is witnessing steady growth owing to increased product penetration as well as expanding product portfolio. India is traditionally known for extensive use of hair oil as conditioners and this product segment still holds a leading share of hair care market.
Apart from hair oil, shampoo, hair colours and recent additions such as hair styling products are well received, especially among the youth population in urban areas. In addition to the retail market, specialised hair care beauty salons are increasingly becoming a popular medium for introducing specialised products in the premium market. Hair care products with natural ingredients are gaining market share especially in the shampoo and hair colour/ dye categories and are largely positioned as premium products.
Traditionally, Indian women have been very non experimental with hair care and hairstyling. Most preferred to go for conventional methods, using oil to condition hair, henna to color it and shikakai powder or soaps to wash hair. Other than this routine, most of them did not use any hairstyling or hair care products.
But since 2000, the usage pattern has been changing, resulting in impressive growth for the hair care industry. There is increased awareness among all levels of consumers—from the elite buyers to lower–income customers. Male consumers also have evolved as a category, and products are being introduced to meet the specific needs of men.
The purchasing power of women has improved, and they now are willing to spend more on personal grooming—with hair care taking precedence. In addition, with more available global fashions and trends, women consumers also are ready to try out new hairstyles and colors.
Men are fast emerging as a separate consumer category in a market traditionally dominated by women. The change in the buying pattern includes men looking for care and styling products that cater to their specific needs. This has led to marketers launching SKUs specific to male buyers’ needs—Shwarzkopf’s BC men hair therapy range of products, for example, has been designed for men. Similarly, styling gel brands such as Brylcreem, Marico Industries’ Parachute After Shower Hair Cream and Set Wet Hair Gel all target men with male-specific advertisements.
Thus in Hair Care too Consumer wants Value for money and a multifunctional product that can be used for various purpose.
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