ABOUT AUTHOR:
Vinay Kumar Singh
General Manager-Technical,
Mikasa Cosmetics Limited, Ahmedabad
Skin care market in India is estimated to be more than Rs 7,000 crore as per Euro monitors report of 2013. Skin care is rapidly growing segment in India. Demand for skin care products will continue to rise as consumers start paying more attention to their skin. Consumers of all age groups look for benefits including wrinkle-free, smooth and glowing, and healthy skin.With changing life styles, increase in disposable incomes, greater product choice and availability, and influence of satellite television, internet, more people are taking interest in personal grooming. The facial skin care market is booming. Products are competing with one another to take shelf space in the retail stores. Facial skin care products have become an essential part of the beauty market. Like western countries, creams and potions are applied in India also, in an effort to remove the pimples and the acne, fight stress and worry lines, and to remain young..The trend is driven further by the launch of new products with additional benefits which persuades consumers to buy these brands. As a result, skin care witnessed growth by a value CAGR of 8% at constant 2013 prices.
It is estimated that Skincare Market in India will Be Bigger than the Europe Market, Where Innovation will Be Key to Success!
Before enumerating advance technologies involved in skin care, one must try to understand the most apt definition of Cosmetics as given in D&C Act, 1940, which states that
Cosmetics means any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled and sprayed on or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as a component for cosmetics.
Thus following are Basic functions of cosmetics:
1. To protect the skin from external harmful environments.
2. To cleanse and take care of skin, hair, teeth & nail.
3. To adhere superficially to enable improvement of outward appearance.
People use cosmetics to look attractive, beautiful, presentable to others, but ultimately it enhances the SelfConfidence of user.
Now a days Potential Users of Cosmetics are no longer Women, Men too use lots of products.
Why there was need to rope in advance technology in skin care? It was due to the Demand of consumers, who wants: Multi- Functional, Trendy and multipurpose products. They want more; they want value for money and also quick solution.
Examples: Multifunctional BB/CC/DD/EE/MM Cream
The skin lightening /whitening category is expanding and providing skin lightening with multifunctional advantages such as UV protection, miniaturization & anti aging.
Mikasa Cosmetics has created 10-in-1 MM Cream incorporating Actives for Hydrating, Uniform and Luminous Complexion, Soothing, Ant ageing, skin lifting, exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, sunscreen, skin lightening, opacifier & colour to match skin tone.
Trendy portable products e.g. Skin Cream in Sachet.
Multi Purpose products e.g. Skin cream that can be used as antiseptic agent.
Advance Technology in Skin Care has been witnessed in areas like Product function, Processes and Testing Procedures. Product categories like Cosmeceuticals and Cosmenutrics became quite popular. Innovation has been key driver to create products that satisfy need of consumers.
Cosmeceuticals products like Fairness Product, Deodorants, Anti ageing and Anti wrinkle products, Lip plumping lipstick are in huge demand. Cosmeceuticals are the product that acts as bridge between cosmetics and medicine. It is applied topically like Cosmetics but has efficacy like medicine and acts to bring in cosmetics effects. There is so much demand of Fairness Product that market is mushroomed with lot many brands offering this product. Every consumer wants to become fairer whether he or she has dark or fair skin. Everyone wants to become fairer, they are not satisfied with the colour of skin they have. This is one of the major segments of product in Skin Care Market.
There has been lots of demand of Deodorant in the market. Every member of family has their own choice of deodorant be it old, adult, teen even kids. Today in many house even a kid does not go to school without using deodorant. Of course one must stop misuse/abuse of this product as there have been reported cases of inhaling deodorant through nostrils or mouth to get high. Many a times, even today consumers do not know the exact use of product, for which manufacturers must try to educate consumer in correct usage of product. Deodorants are designed to reduce axillary odour i.e.; these are preparations which remove or decrease perspiration odour or prevent their development or both. The demand of this product has increased many a fold due to the fact that in India climatic condition forces them to sweat, which leads to formation of bad odour due to bacterial decomposition. Odour of fresh perspiration is not objectionable but is characteristic and mild. There is a country in the world where marriage is solemnized based on the odour of fresh sweat. There are tribes who attach lots of significance to the smell of sweat and it is the main criteria of their relationship with other member of another tribe.
There has been lots of innovation in Skin Care category with respect to its actives.
Enzymes have been tried as active for products. Enzymes are organic compounds produced by living organisms (living cells). Some are excreted through the cell wall. Examples: Papain -an enzyme found in papaya fruit is found to be effective in treatment of hypertrophic scars. DNA (Deoxyribose nucleic acid) -Lotions containing bacteria derived DNA repair enzymes is found to be effective in repair of sunlight induced DNA damage in human cells.
Anti wrinkle And Anti- Ageing Products:
These products interact with function of skin and improve its condition by interfering with the metabolic activity of skin. And thus they also fall in Cosmeceuticals category. Anti ageing Preparations having Free Radical Scavengers and other efficacious actives are available today. Antioxidants are used in skin care products for their anti-aging ability. Advances in plant cell technology provide a new way to extract antioxidants from plants in their purest and most stable form. Plant stem cells are used to get purer antioxidants.
COSMENUTRICS: It is another category that has witnessed so many product launches. This category of product is meant to ingest thereby imparting cosmetics benefit to the consumer. Products are developed using ingredients processed by using Biotechnology.
Biotechnology makes use of living organisms to make a product or run a process. Biotechnology actives like Natamilks are plant-based milks containing water-soluble and oil-soluble Principles of a plant into a soft and fluid texture.
Phytolaits combine water and oil-soluble principles from the plants like Cocoa, Coconut, Jasmine , Lotus, Oat, Oat/ ceramids, Rice, Soybean .These 'vegetable milks' provide their restructuring, moisturizing and smoothing properties and contribute to improve the skin condition.
Skin Delivery Systems: If the cosmetic active is not stable for appreciable period then there is a need to look for other delivery system such as encapsulation with liposomes, Micro & nano particles, micro encapsulations.
Micro-encapsulation is a process in which tiny particles or droplets are surrounded by a coating to give small capsules of many useful properties. In general, it is used to incorporate food ingredients, enzymes, cells or other materials on a micro metric scale. Microencapsulation can also be used to enclose solids, liquids, or gases inside a micrometric wall made of hard or soft soluble film, in order to reduce dosing frequency and prevent the degradation of pharmaceuticals. In a relatively simple form, a microcapsule is a small sphere with a uniform wall around it. The material inside the microcapsule is referred to as the core, internal phase, or fill, whereas the wall is sometimes called a shell, coating, or membrane. Some materials like lipids and polymers, such as alginate, may be used as a mixture to trap the material of interest inside. Most microcapsules have pores with diameters between a few micrometers and a few millimeters.
Mechanism of Releaseof active adopted in Micro-encapsulation is as below.
a) Osmotically activated: Rupture of wall due to change in pH of skin.
b) Temperature sensitive system: Certain polymers are sensitive to small changes in temperature, around room temperature which leads to expansion or collapse of their structure.
c) Melting activated: Melting of encapsulated wall leading to an abrupt release of active.
Advantageof Micro Encapsulation: Separation of incompatible material, Masking of undesired properties of active components such as odour, pH etc., and Controlled release of active components for delayed (timed) or long acting (sustained) release.
Another delivery system is to employ Liposomes:
Liposomes are suitable carriers as they serve as a depot system for the sustained release of an entrapped compound. Liposomes are available with variable lipid contents, size, lamellarity & surface charge. Liposomes enable water soluble & water insoluble materials to be used together in the formulations without use of surfactants or emulsifiers. It is possible to entrap oils or oil soluble materials in the liposome walls.
Example: Foundation with the Asymmetric Oxygen Carrier System (AOCS). The formula contains liposomes to deliver oxygen at sub-epidermal level. It replenishes molecular oxygen levels in the skin, which diminish with ageing. This has been an interesting idea involving an essential element, oxygen, to rejuvenate the skin.
Researcher has developed Insulin Tablet based on this technique.
Now let us understand different types of Emulsion utilised now a days
Microemulsion, Nanoemulsion and Complex Emulsion.
Microemulsion is a thermodynamically stable dispersion of one liquid phase into another, stabilized by an interfacial film of surfactants. The interfacial tension between two phases is extremely low. It may be either O/W or W/O. A micro emulsion consists of swollen micelles and appears transparent.
Nanoemulsion has been distinguished from Microemulsion based on the smaller droplet size in the submicron range(100-200 nm).
Microemulsion as well as Nanoemulsion is acceptable in cosmetics because there is no inherent creaming, sedimentation, flocculation or coalescence which is observed in macroemulsions.
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Complex emulsions are ideal three compartment systems i.e., an emulsion dispersed in third phase. There are two types, O/W/O = O/W emulsion in oil phase and W/O/W = W/O emulsion in water phase. In this emulsion, the compartmentalization of actives in the three phases renders controlled & sustained release of actives. These emulsions also provide the longer lasting moisturizing effect than the conventional emulsions.
Following are the Recent Trends in Beauty Enhancement
1. Laser Technology: Conditions stated below can be treated by laser technology:
Wrinkles & Freckles, Varicose veins, Birthmarks, Scarsand Strechmarks
2. BOTOX: BOTOX® is the commercial trade name for Botulinum Toxin Type A.
Botulinum Toxin is derived from the bacteria Clostridium Botulinum. When injected into muscles, Botulinum Toxin has a local effect. It blocks transmission between the nerve endings and muscle fibers around the injection site to cause weakness of the nearby muscle.
What is Botox used for?
Botox is a non-surgical cosmetic treatment for frown lines. It is typically used in people aged 18 to 65. Botox works by blocking nerve transmission to temporarily reduce the contractions of the facial muscles that cause frown lines. It has been proven to be a safe and effective treatment for wrinkles, and botox injections are becoming increasingly popular.
Botox Injection Procedure: Doctor will administer several tiny injections of botox directly into the muscles of your face. Prior to injection, the doctor will determine where to administer the injections by examining your ability to move certain muscles in your brow area. The entire botox injection procedure takes approximately 10 minutes and does not require anesthesia. Discomfort is usually minimal and brief.
After the injection: You should notice an improvement in your frown lines within 3 to 7 days, the effects of which can last up to 4 months. However, results may vary. After a period of time, your frown lines will begin to reappear as the effects of botox wear off.
How often can Botox injections be given?
One can receive botox injections every 4 months. With repeated treatments, thinning of the muscles occurs, which produces longer lasting results.
3. Needless injection: GOOD NEWS !!!!!!!!!
The most exciting technological advancement in active delivery systems is the use of needle free injection devices for firing molecules through the skin at high velocity.
4. Facial enhancement & Correction
Kaya Skin Clinic, the international chain specializing in scientific skincare management, has introduced Aquamid, the internationally reputed filler for permanent and safe Aesthetic Facial Enhancement and Correction. Aquamid® permanent fillers are transparent implants in hydrogel form. The hydrogel is 97.5% sterile water bound to 2.5% cross-linked polyacrylamide – the same, safe material used in biomedicine for decades. The gel is sterile, stable, and biologically inactive.
It require no surgery or recovery time. It become a soft and stable part of one’s tissue. It is non-toxic and non-allergenic. One can be rest assured with Aquamid fillers as it does not disappear, and does not move from the injection site.”
Aquamid fillers are injected without surgery – with only local anesthesia, if any.
Aquamid is recommended for: 1 Make lips fuller, 2Remove or reduce deep wrinkles and folds around the lips, nose and between eyebrows, 3. Remodel or enhance cheeks, 4.Reduce the prominence of scars, 5.Remodel or remove chin clefts and 6.Removal of scars, disfigurations and abnormalities
Most recent filler is Hyaluronic acid.
It is natural skin component made from bacterial cultures that is hygroscopic and attracts water to the area. It results in a skin plumping effect. Effect lasts from six to nine months. Low-pH nonbuffered glycolic acid. It is used in Nonsurgical Facial Restoration, It is used to eliminate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhance collagen and elastin production and even out skin discolouration
Candela Ultra Shape system for Fat Reduction
It provides instant fat-destroying results by transmitting pulsed ultrasonic energy directly onto problem area which eradicates fat cells almost upon contact. It is painless, non-invasive ultrasound treatment, which is FDA approved. Full result is visible between two to four weeks after first treatment.
Vampire Facelift
Dr.Ashley Curtis & Delmer Henderson perform Vampire Facelift for facial rejuvenation.
This non-surgical procedure promotes new tissue growth to improve facial skin tone for a more youthful appearance. In this blood from patient is used to get Platelet rich plasma, which is combined with facial filler and then re-injected into area of concern around the face.
Ultherapy Facial Skin Tightening
In this Ultrasound is used to visualize the deeper layers of dermal tissue in need of rejuvenation. After face & neck has been mapped out, it concentrates ultrasound energy to needed areas. The applied energy heats the underlying layers of tissue to tighten the appearance of on the face & neck. The heat also increases collagen production, a process naturally slowed by age. Visible improvement in skin laxity and volume after just one treatment.
The outlook of more stringent regulation governing usage of active ingredients in personal care products implies the need to strengthen testing capabilities to ensure adequate product safety. Also the industry needs to self-regulate to ensure performance claims made in product advertisements are commensurate with benefits delivered to consumers. The surging demand for green products calls for better product and application R&D capabilities to use natural/organic ingredients more effectively. We at MIKASA Cosmetics Ltd., Ahmedabad do Contract Research for various domestic as well as overseas customers. Our vision has always been to formulate product that delivers what it claims and we are open to anyone who wishes to take our service. The time is ripe to review one’s strategy and come up with innovative approaches to help realise the full potential of the Indian skin care sector.
The skin care segment has shown tremendous growth and emerged as a potential investment area for players in recent years. From treatment of common skin care diseases, the skin care industry has evolved to the age of cosmetic and anti-aging treatments. The overall skin care market is expected to grow with the rise in demand of various skin care services. Factors like global warming, anti-aging solutions, new product innovations, growing media influence, etc. are driving this market. Boosted by growing consumer demand, rise in disposable incomes, lifestyle related disorders, craze for cosmetic surgeries, obsession for young-looking skin, low cost of treatment, and booming medical tourism, the skin care market in India is likely to expand and emerge as a potential investment area for players. Lately, the premium skincare market in India has begun attracting a host of international brands. US skincare company, H2O Plus, offering a high-end sea-based skincare line, has entered the market too. Eyeing a yearly growth of 20-25%, the skincare major plans to open 15 stores in the next three years. Amway too has entered into the premium skincare segment with the Attitude range, developed specifically for the Indian market. "This range is targeted at the super premium end.
Breakthroughs in Delivery System, Bio-technology in addition to innovative Actives and improvements in testing methods will continue to have a positive impact on the future development of Skin Care products.
The products of tomorrowwill be more safer, aesthetically-pleasing and target-oriented than those of today.
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